leather renovation guidelines
LEATHER RENOVATION IMPORTANT
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE COMMENCING ANY MAJOR CLEANING OR RESTORATION WORK
The following text is based on research, practical experience and feedback from many users of our system. Although we have every confidence in our products and are willing to give advice on any leather problems, cleaning, renovation and aftercare. We regret that no guarantee can be given due to the wide range of unknown contaminants to which the leather may have been previously subjected. In all cases we suggest that a practice test be carried out on a small, concealed area before you tackle the whole job.
The keynote of the renovation process is to obtain the maximum adhesion possible between the original colour coating of the leather (or in some cases the leather itself) and the first coat of renovator. This all-important adhesion depends on the efficiency of the cleaning and preparation of the surface, removal of old polishes and preparations and the care taken in applying the first coat of Coloured Renovator.
THE CLEANING AND PREPARATION IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE RENOVATION PROCESS
In the event of there being severe contamination on the leather i.e. Head grease / Perspiration staining, Paint deposits, Ballpoint or Felt tip pen marks, Grease or dirt from work clothes etc. It may be found necessary to use a cleaning or de-greasing agent specifically designed to remove such contamination before commencing a range of specialist products is available if not traceable at your local cleaning products retailer.
If the leather is very dry, it may also be found necessary to treat with a “leather oil” or “Food” before renovating. If in doubt, please do not hesitate to contact us for advice.
MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
One renovation kit, of a size suitable for the seat(s) to be renovated, (if renovating panels and door trims order larger size) containing;
Cleaning Fluid, Coloured renovator, Dressing (seal), Cleaning and Dressing sponges, Lint-free cotton clothes, Neutral Cream, Duster.
Apart from the “kit” you will also require a quantity of absorbent cloth e.g. Old sheet or towelling, a small dish or saucer and a basin or bowl.
You may also need some masking tape, news or Kraft paper to protect wooden framework or non-leather parts, a small nailbrush or similar.
Pour some of the blue cleaning fluid into a basin or bowl and using the large sponge and/or a small nailbrush, scrub thoroughly working panel-by-panel to ensure removal of all traces of old polish and creams etc any shiny or new panels should be lightly scoured to assist adhesion.
WARNING -This may also remove some of your original finish.
Rub with dampened clean rag to remove all traces of dirt and cleaner and dry at room temperature, possibly overnight.
NB. If any part of the unit requires re-stuffing or repair, it is advisable to carry out this work prior to cleaning as the softening action of the cleaning process and slight shrinking and tightening on drying tends to give better form to the seat.
Shake the bottle of coloured renovator thoroughly to ensure that the entire colour blend is completely dispersed and pour some into a saucer or shallow dish. Fold a piece of the lint-free cotton cloth to make a firm pad and dab up a small amount of renovator. Using a firm rubbing action, apply the renovator to the leather, working well into any “cracks or creases”. We do suggest that any badly worn or damaged areas be dealt with first as these may require further treatments to completely disguise and re-colour damage.
If, after any coat of colour is completely dry (no longer cold & damp to the touch) there are any rough or harsh feeling sections, these may be reduced by the careful use of the abrasive cleaning/scouring sponge, fine sandpaper or steel wool.
When you are satisfied that all worn or discoloured areas have been treated, and you are ready to blend them into the rest of the unit, or to carry out a complete renovation of the unit, proceed as follows: -
Apply one, firmly rubbed-in coat over the whole unit, followed by as many further light coats of renovator as are required to give even coverage. Work panel-by-panel using light stroking/rubbing action or if available these latter coats may be applied using professional (air pressure) spray equipment, leave to dry thoroughly between coats.
TIP Use the renovator sparingly – a number of light coats will produce a better, more natural and longer lasting finish than would be achieved by fewer, heavy applications. Also it is essential that the first coat MUST BE RUBBED IN. Forced drying is not advised. However, if warm air blowers i.e. fan heater or hair drier need to be used for example whilst pleats and creases are held open until dry, ensure that this heat is of a gentle nature as forced drying with high temperatures may effect the adhesion of the finish.
SEALANT DRESSING Shake well and using the small yellow “dressing/application” sponge or spray equipment apply one or more even, wet coats, ensuring that the pleats, creases, button depressions and piping are treated before the main flat areas. If more than one coat is needed, ensure that the previous coat is completely dry. Allow leather to dry thoroughly before using/exposing to weather conditions.
POLISH AND CARE
The Neutral Leather Cream supplied with the “kit” should be applied with a soft cloth, allowed to dry and buffed up with a clean duster. This will leave your leather with natural “non-plastic” sheen and feel. The cream may be used for routine cleaning and care of your leather.
IN ALL CASES
IT IS ALWAYS ADVISABLE TO CARRY OUT A TEST ON A CONCEALED AREA BEFORE ATTEMPTING THE COMPLETE JOB
THIS IS TO ENSURE THAT THE END RESULT WILL BE SATISFACTORY BEFORE COMMENCING WORK ON THE WHOLE UNIT